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Create Stunning Black and White Pictures |
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If you want to see
the original color photo, click
here. |
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Why a special plug-in for converting
to B/W? |
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BW conversion in Photoshop vs. B/W Studio |
We get this question often, so
here's the answer through examples and a few words.
It took 5 seconds to create the B/W image below with our B/W Studio.
I have really done my best to create results with Photoshop that
look as good as the B/W Studio result, but after fiddling with the
Channel Mixer controls and the Black & White Adjustment controls
for more than 15 minutes in each case, I gave up. In both cases
it would take a lot more work in Photoshop to improve these results,
but I don't have time for that and I assume you don't either.
And worse: None of the results look natural because the different
colors do not have the same light and in addition mid tone variation
vanishes. Please check this with the examples below.
Usually the best and fastest result, in Photoshop, is to convert
to grayscale mode (or Desaturate) and then edit further, but that
posterizes the image. And when converting to grayscale image mode
(or using Desaturate) you don't have any control over the conversion.
In addition CS3's B/W Adjustment only works with RGB, not CMYK.
Photoshop's standard methods are:
1. CS3's Black & White adjustment.
2. Channel Mixer
3. Convert to grayscale image mode
4. Desaturate (in this case Desaturate produces the same result
as converting to grayscale)
Anyone who has tried these methods knows what a time consuming
and frustrating job it is and how poor the results are. Afterwards
you have to adjust levels and contrast and you end up with
a posterized histogram... and spending a lot of time back
and forth.
You are welcome to download the original and give it a try
yourself:
Click
here to get the original |

Original
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B/W Studio. Time spent: 5 sec.
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CS3's Black & White Adjustment |

Photoshop: Channel Mixer
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Photoshop: Grayscale/Desaturate
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The Lens Color Filters |
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Lens
color filter |

The Film page also houses the color filters.
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The
Color Filters popup menu has the seven primary colors preset.
Strength will set the saturation of the color-filter. The selected
color and strength will be displayed in the colored rectangle. You
can set the filter-color to any of about 1000 different colors with
the slider. After you have clicked on the slider, you can move it
with the left/right arrow keys on the keyboard for accuracy (this
keyboard adjustment is possible with all sliders).
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Lens
color filter examples |
The following examples show the
seven preset filter-colors at their full strength. They were all
converted with the neutral Perceptual Luminance method.

Original photo
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No color-filter
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Magenta filter
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Blue filter
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Cyan filter
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Green filter
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Yellow filter
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Orange filter
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Red filter
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Film Spectral Sensitivity |
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Color
Sensitivity
& Film Presets
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These
seven sliders let you determine the sensitivity to the range of
light wavelengths centered round the the specified color. The wavelengths
specified represent the pure color at the center. Magenta is not
a pure wavelength, hence its value (400) is in brackets. In color
theory one operates with the term "purple line" to handle
the purple colors that appear as unique colors to the human eye,
but in reality are a mixture of the red and blue ends of the spectrum.
Since they are a mixture, there is no wavelength to represent them.
We placed magenta at the ultraviolet end of the spectrum since it's
more akin to visible violet than invisible infrared.
The Film type presets lets you quickly set the seven sliders
to an equivalent of some popular professional films.
In addition we have added orthochromatic, panchromatic and perceptual
luminance. Perceptual luminance is calculated according to the CIE
Luv norm and is considered a neutral conversion. Orthochromatic
and Panchromatic are based on generic spectral sensitivity charts
from Kodak, Ilford etc.
Please see examples below.
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Examples
of converting a digital spectrum |
When we chose the films to emulate,
we were guided by a wish to cover the large variations in sensitivity
to green and red. Where the green sensitivity was the same, like
with TRI-X and APX100, they were selected to cover the range of
different sensitivity to blue and red. You will notice Tri-X is
slightly less sensitive to green than APX, so Tri-X ought to be
placed after APX. But the difference in green sensitivity is small
(5 %) and we wanted to group those with low sensitivity to red and
blue together, so APX belongs together with HP5, DELTA 100 and PAN
F. T400CN should also be in this group, but its sensitivity to green
made us place it above Tri-X. This way we also managed to keep the
film-brands together (TMAX, T400CN and TRI-X are from Kodak, APX
is from Agfa and the rest are from Ilford).
Film |
Filtered
digital spectrum |
Panchromatic
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Orthochromatic
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Perceptual Luminance |
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TMAX |
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T400CN |
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TRI-X |
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APX 100 |
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HP5+ |
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DELTA 100 |
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PAN F+ |
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Examples of converting a photo |
Here is a nice image showing a full range of colors.
In the following examples we filtered it with some of the plug-in's different film presets.
In all cases the other settings were set to default (off).
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Panchromatic
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Orthochromatic
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Perceptual luminance
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TMAX
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T400CN
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TRI-X
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APX 100
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HP5+
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DELTA 100
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PAN F+
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The plug-ins "Print" controls |
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Print
controls |

Grouped under the heading "Print" you will find all the
classic darkroom print techniques such as multigrade, exposure,
highlight correction, shadow correction, etc.
Plus a few extra.
As you will see from the examples below, the multigrade levels and
exposure stops are extremely truthful. |
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Color |
If you check this box, the filter
does not convert to black and white, but instead let's you see and
edit the original color mage. The black & white film emulations
do of course not make sense as such in color-mode, but you can still
use the film sensitivity sliders to control how bright you want
the individual colors. |
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Multigrade
Examples of the plug-ins multigrade filtering |
The plug-in can do all the multigrade
levels. Traditional multigrade paper ranges from 00 to 5. The plug-in
has these levels and even an extra one in either end. Since the
slider can't display 00 (or our extra 000), we have decided to designate
000 as -2 and 00 as -1. Level 2 and 3 are the normal levels suited
for most images.
In the following examples of how the plug-in does multigrade, we
filtered the photo using the neutral method Perceptual Luminance
and only changed the multigrade settings.
Please observe that both the high degree of tonal variation as well
as the delicate grays typical of paper multigrade are preserved
throughout, even at the the extreme ends.

- 2 (our 000)
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- 1 (00)
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0
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1
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2
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3
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4
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5
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6
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Exposure
Examples of exposure filtering compared to Fuji standards |
The Exposure slider is carefully
calibrated to do the same as regular exposure stops (see examples
below). The slider allows from minus 1 1/3 to plus 1 1/3 stops.
The exposure slider designates steps of 1/3 with the value 0.33,
2/3 with 0.66 etc.
The Fuji chart is mainly concerned with push processing, but third
column illustrates normal exposure bracketing and is used for the
following. See the full size chart here
if you want to verify these examples for yourself. [Scanned
from: Fuji Pro-Value, August 2001, vol. 6].
Exposure |
Fuji standard
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Fuji's color standards (left) converted to gray with Perceptual
Luminance
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Normal exposure color photo (see below)
corrected with
the plug-in
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+ 2/3
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+ 1/3
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Normal exposure
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<<< This is the
color photo used for our exposure corrections. To distinguish
the plug-in versions from the "real" versions,
observe the fold.
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- 1/3
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- 2/3
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- 1
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Contrast
Darks & Lights |
Contrast is somewhat similar to
multigrade, but multigrade has more focus on hardness and softness
than contrast as such. It's nice to be able to adjust contrast independently
of the grade of the paper since combinations of low multigrade with
raised contrast (or the reverse) can give nice results.
The plug-in lets you adjust darks and lights independently.

Original
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Perceptual Luminance only.
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Dark Contrast max.
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Dark and Light Contrast max.
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Balance |
Balance
changes the ratio between the amount of light and the amount of
dark in the image.
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Highlights
&
Shadows |
These two sliders let you change
the brightness of highlights and/or shadows.
These examples were all converted with Perceptual Luminance,
-1/3 ev. and cyan filter at full strength.
All settings were identical except for the specified single
change.
Very charming results can be achieved by lowering the shadows
and raising the highlights since this will raise contrast
and improve modeling, while leaving all the mid tones unchanged. |

Highlights +70, Shadows -100
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Highlights +100
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Highlights -100
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Shadows +70
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Shadows -100
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Highlight
alert & Black alert |
These will mark clipping with a contrast color in the preview. |
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Saturate
Blacks & Black Soft Threshold |
Saturate blacks is a modified (monochrome
adapted) version the Power Retouche Black Definition plug-in. In
effect it will darken or brighten the shades darker than Black Soft
Threshold.

plain
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100 %, thresh. 64
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100 %, thresh. 128
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100 %, thresh. 192
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The Zone Controls |
The
Zones |
Selecting
the Zones controls-page will change the control panel. to a page that
gives you three selectable zones (A,B and C) like the one shown here.
The three zones are independent.
You select the eyedropper tool (click on the icon) to pick
the zones main value in the preview window. When the zone is selected
by clicking in the preview with the eyedropper, the eyedropper tool
will revert to the hand, and a colored cross will be placed where
you clicked.
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Zone
markers |
The crosses will
reflect the color of the little rectangle next to "Mask
Zone". If you select Mask Zone, then all areas within
the zone will be colored (in the preview only). This is an
aid in setting the spread of the zone. "Spread Zone"
will widen the zone inclusion an equal number of value levels
on either side of the selected point, so make sure you select
the mid value of the zone.
Contrast, Brightness and Balance operate
exactly as the same controls do in the general Studio group
of controls, but do so within the limits of the zone.
Balance and Brightness might seem to do the
same at first, but they don't. Brightness raises or lowers
the overall value. Balance shifts the midpoint of the zone
to a value that's either brighter (hence darkening the zone)
or darker (hence brightening the zone). |

Zone A = I
Zone B = II
Zone C = III
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The Histogram and Anti-posterization |
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These
controls are common to most of the Power Retouche plug-ins. The
displayed histogram will be for the area in the preview.
Anti-posterization should be set as low as possible. In most cases
leave it off (at 0) in order to speed up processing time.
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CMYK or RGB? Important note! |
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Important
difference between processing
RGB vs CMYK images |
You will usually get different
results if you filter an RGB image or a CMYK image. This is because
we made the B/W Studio take advantage of CMYK's K channel (used
for black definition and contrast) to enhance texture and detail.

CMYK
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RGB
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This is particularly useful in portraits, where the texture of
the skin plays an important part. But it will be very good in all
images of medium saturation. You should be aware, though, that RGB
images of high saturation may not look good when converted to CMYK
and that this will also influence the result of the B/W Studio.
But if your RGB photo is within the range RGB and CMYK have in common
(medium saturation), then converting the RGB image to CMYK before
using the B/W Studio will really improve the texture and detail
of the output. |
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